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Search Results for 'orijen'

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  • #33840
    LoDoVilla
    Member

    Orijen and Victor have come up quite a lot here…looks like I can get Orijen at Pet Supplies Plus, but Victor is available in Ft. Lauderdale only. Strange, since I live close to Wellington, and that is big horse country. There must be a feed store that carries it.

    #33831
    Shasta220
    Member

    I don’t have a whole lot of experiences with different foods, or where they’re sourced from. First off, I’m SO sorry for your loss! I’ve lost my favorite dog ever prematurely (I know you shouldn’t pick fave furbabies…but Otto always had a special spot), he was only two when he got killed..

    Anyway, back to food. I trust this site quite a bit, and would say you could /probably/ get any 5 star food on here and be happy. Orijen is one of the favorites on here, and my friend has her dogs on NutriSource Grain Free. The 13y.o, lab/collie is happy, energetic, an super healthy. I also have heard good reviews on Victor.

    But it really may take some trial and error. Some dogs have insanely great health on a brand, while other dogs don’t do so well, but like I say – check into the 5 star foods on this website to get started, 😉

    Best wishes, and thank you for trying to get your dogs the best you have the resources for.

    #33825

    It’s hard to recommend “best” food since every dog does differently on different food. One dog might do great on a 5 star food which another one not. I don’t feed kibble anymore, but if I did I would go with either Champion (Orijen/Acana, I prefer Acana regional due to slightly lower protein), Petcurean (the grain free Go formulas) or Fromm.

    #33724
    raylene5
    Member

    Took our 12 week old Miniature Schnauzer puppy to the vet for his first check up yesterday and, like with most vets I’ve ever met, I sure didn’t like her. I had called ahead of time and asked if the vets at this office are supportive of raw feeding and was assured that they are. Well, as soon as I told her I was feeding raw (Primal Pronto and ZiwiPeak) she gave me the spiel about contaminating the kids with his kisses and salmonella.

    So Kamper has been eating grass since he got to our place. He was born in Arizona and had not seen grass at all before so at first I thought it was just curiousity. When I told the vet I was concerned about his eating the grass, she said it was probably because he was on a raw diet and that dogs can’t digest raw foods. That, like our bodies, they can better digest processed foods (she brought up how when we were cavemen we ate a lot of uncooked food and just sat around digesting it all day). Now, the good thing was that she did suggest very high quality kibble (Orijen, Acana, etc…) and not the typical vet-endorsed Science Diet or anything like that.

    Anyway, it was a frustrating visit. I just wanted to know if anyone else’s vet had said these things about processed foods being easier to digest for their dogs.

    #33635

    I agree with what Ana said. I have a Great Dane as well so I understand the challenge that feeding a giant breed can be sometimes. I would avoid the hot dogs too. I only use hot dogs (good quality, all meat, all natural) for very special rewards. It’s not something you want to feed all the time.

    My Dane was always slightly overweight on kibble no matter what brand I fed or how much I reduced his portion. The best thing I ever did for his health was switch him to The Honest Kitchen and raw. THK is a dehydrated food. You add water and let it rehydrate before serving it. It would be great for traveling in your motorhome with. You can incorporate some raw food instead of hot dogs if the concept of raw doesn’t bother you. There are a number of high quality raw frozen foods out there. I like Primal and Stella & Chewy’s the best. I started making my own homemade raw food because it was cheaper for me.

    If you want to feed kibble, definitely check out the 4 and 5 star rated kibbles on this site. Everybody has their preferences. A few I like and have fed my Dane are: Earthborn Holistic, Annamaet Grain Free, Go! Fit & Free, Acana Regionals (Grain Free), and Orijen. Others I like are Horizon Legacy, Dr. Tim’s, and Victor. I would feed the 7 month old a food from Hound Dog Mom’s list of foods that are appropriate for a large breed puppy: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwApI_dhlbnFTXhUdi1KazFzSUk/edit All of these foods are 4 or 5 stars and have the appropriate amount of calcium for a growing large breed puppy.

    Good luck and have fun with your newly adopted pups!

    #33548
    Momof6
    Member

    I have had a few friends switch to orijen and it was simply too much. It’s extremely rich food and high protein. I always recommend giving dogs a little time to adjust, you can help with pumpkin and some sort of digestive aid. If no better, look into acana. same company, great food as well. Some times Orijen, beings so rich, just doesn’t sit well. Personally, it gave my dogs horrific gas and I couldn’t handle it lol.

    #33534
    Jazz Lover
    Member

    Sounds like a busy wknd for sure!

    I was feeling so good about my choice. I p/u Orijen adult. Now it sounds as if I should have p/u their LBP. I did not notice a significant difference in the 2 guaranteed analysis. Other than LBP note carbs & adult did not. I thought the overall consensus was the adult at 10 mos.

    Susan responded to my email & her site is back up? She says any links that have the “2,” you’ll need to remove that “2” to find the article. I plan to follow & did like on FB, as well.

    Lmk what you all think & if I should exchange Orijen Adult food for Orijen’s LBP?

    PS How can I add a picture to my profile?

    Freed1 ~
    You can see the entire 5-star list of foods here: /dog-food-reviews/dry/5-star/.

    My opinion is that Orijen is the best dry food, whether you are feeding puppy, large breed puppy or adult. It is however, more expensive that the average brand you find at Petsmart.

    #33531

    Jazz ~
    Sorry I didn’t get back to you yesterday. It’s been a madhouse around here with my oldest daughter moving out yesterday, me trying to finish some reading on raw diets so I can order some food before tomorrow and trying to find the right adoptable Golden for my husband.

    I appreciate that RescueDaneMom jumped in to give you some very good advice. Pattyvaughn is another great resource as are any number of people more qualified than I.

    Although some of the papers from the Great Dane study indicate that a 6 month old LBP could effectively absorb calcium, I have to agree with GDM that waiting at least until 10 months to switch to a higher calcium diet is better. I would however, still feed LBP kibble until full grown, up to 2 years old – you’ll know when your pup has reached that point.

    I did switch Mystery to Orijen, Large Breed Puppy a month or so ago and if I hadn’t gone raw I’d have fed it until he was at least 16 months old. I wouldn’t have moved to Acana LBP because their MINIMUM calcium is 1.6%, Orijen is 1.2/1.5 min/max. Some of the Acana Regionals recipes have a similar low minimum calcium of 1.2% but they don’t say what their max is. Additionally, the protein content is lower than Orijen LBP. For comparison’s sake – Orijen LBP and both adult formulas contain 14 proteins and then starches follow. Acana Wild Prairie 2 proteins then a starch while their Grasslands is a bit better at 4. 80% of Orijen’s ingredients are protein, Acana is 60%. Of the other foods that RDM listed, I have opinions on all of them, but you can do further comparisons.

    IF I were going to continue into adult kibble, I would absolutely have stayed with any variety of adult Orijen and would have felt very good about my decision. All five cats are eating Orijen with the youngest, a five month old Maine Coon stealing a few ounces of Mystery’s raw. I spent a lot of time researching pedigrees and genetics and food so that we could avoid, to every extent possible, a repeat of the $10,000 it cost us to have double-hip surgery on Sunset before she was two and three months of 24/7 in-clinic therapy to teach her how to walk again. I’m by no means an expert, but I can read and the more I do, the better I feel about my food choices, and why I switched to Orijen at 9 months and then raw so soon after at 10 months.

    I wholly agree with RDM on turmeric. Mystery is enrolled in the Morris Foundation’s lifetime study on the relationship between cancer and Golden Retrievers and since we just lost Sunset to cancer, I feel a duty to do everything I can keep Mystery from getting cancer. I do purchase some supplements from Swanson and I’ve had Mystery on Springtime’s Longevity but I’m not certain I will continue that. I do agree with your decision to limit supplements since most kibble already contain a variety of supplements – I recently read an article on supplement overkill. If I can dig that article up I’ll let you know.

    I also give Mystery raw eggs on occasion. It’s my understanding that the shell of the egg has a perfect balance of calcium to phosphorus. So if you’re still feeding a low calcium kibble and you want to add a bit more without switching to a higher calcium food, break an egg! I usually break it over a bowl, break up the shell a bit with my hands and pour it over his food. He gets the same eggs I eat – Born Free, Vegetarian without the added omegas or any other organic, free-range brown egg when Born Free is unavailable.

    One more note – Susan Thixton had her site truthaboutpetfood.com hacked a couple years ago and so opened another site adding a “2” to the end. The problem finally resolved, she’s moved everything back over to truthaboutpetfood.com but is in the process of cleaning things up – hopefully that will be finished soon. Keep checking back, sign up for her newsletter or “Like” her on Facebook. She’s worth following.

    Whew! 😉

    #33464

    Jazz lover,

    I do like Dr. Becker’s stuff. It makes sense to me and I like how she presents her information. The eggshell can be beneficial because it is a source of calcium. I do not give my dog the shell because I don’t buy organic eggs and I can’t be sure of what’s been sprayed on them. I just crack a raw egg into my Dane’s food bowl and mix it with his other stuff. He loves it. I will also cooks eggs over easy for him. He likes them both ways. The only dairy product I will give my dog is kefir because it’s 99% lactose free. He may get cheese if I need to give him pills. Other than that I don’t see a need for dairy. I don’t know why kibbles include cheese. Fromm has the cheese. Orijen has eggs. I’ll be honest- I’m not a fan of Fromm. Some people rave about it but my dog never liked it.

    #33416
    Jazz Lover
    Member

    Thank you RDM, sounds as if you like alot of the info from Dr. Karen Becker as well?

    You mention eggs, and she also says the shells are beneficial. Does this mean to break an entire egg on the food (raw) w/ shell? (In general dairy for me is another, like corn, I stay away from. I thought it was interesting to see that one, either Fromm or Orijen included Wisconsin cheese in their food.)

    I went over to thetruthaboutpetfood, but the sight doesn’t seem as friendly for the first time visitor. Looking for the reviews on foods & lists.

    Thank you again from Jazzy & family!

    #33411

    Jazz lover,

    The general concensus is that it is safe to switch over to a food with higher calcium level at 10 months old. Orijen is a really good food. You could try the Orijen Adult when your pup is 10 months old. I also like Acana Regionals (Grain-free), Annamaet Grain-free, and Petcurean Go! Fit & Free Adult.

    I give tumeric and omega 3s (fish or krill oil) daily. I buy my tumeric from Swanson’s Vitamins. You can get organic bulk tumeric by Starwest Naturals on their website. See my previous post to Lablubber for the article on Tumeric and dosage. You can give toppers with every meal. I would limit the fish to twice a week. You can also give eggs (cooked or raw) as a topper. You want to exchange the toppers with his food based on calories. Figure out how many calories the topper has and give him that much less food. Say the topper is 100 cal. Figure out how much food you need to remove based on the kcal/cup provided on the bag or website for your kibble. Ex- you would give 1/4 cup less food if your kibble is 400 kcal/cup. I hope I explained that well enough.

    As far as what to look for in a food for your dog at 10 months and after is really up to you. I prefer to feed a high protein (30% or higher), grain-free (though not opposed to grain-inclusive if not fed all the time and high quality grains or pseudo-grains like oats, quinoa, or millet), and china-free ingredients (need to contact the manufacturer). I have fed my Great Dane Orijen, Acana, Annamaet, Earthborn Holistic, and Go! Fit & Free with no problems. Others that I would try if I still fed kibble (I feed raw and dehydrated now) are: Dr. Tim’s Kinesis grain-free, Victor GF Ultra Pro, and Timberwolf.

    I hope that helps. 🙂

    #33404

    Good day!

    I am hoping to get some suggestions about my dog. He is a seven year old super-mutt and I’m wondering if anyone has some suggestions with a recurring loose stool/diarrhea problem or has had success in this area.

    My boy has pretty much always had some less-than-firm stools. Some days it looks better than others but pretty consistently for the longest time, he hasn’t had firm stools for the whole day. Usually his first poop is good and then it kinda gets smaller and looser. This is something I have brought up with my vet in the past and he has been given probiotics before and not much else. I will address this again next time I bring him in but am not open to trying prescription food in the event my vet tries to push that. I am wondering if any other tests should be run also, which I will ask.

    He doesn’t have any accidents in the house, never has. He gets itchy skin occasionally but it doesn’t seem to correlate with diet, more changes in the weather and he reacts strongly to flea bites the couple of times we were unfortunate enough to get fleas (yuck). He is not itching currently. He is active and loves to go on walks, a bit slower in the wetter/crappier weather (has some arthritis in hips). He has hypothyroid as well which is being managed (soloxine once daily plus a half dose 3x week) as well as his weight (he was overweight when diagnosed and now has a non-tootsie-roll figure! 😉 ).

    I recently switched my dogs from Earthborn to Orijen adult. He didn’t seem to mind the switch initially. I am feeding him two 1/2 cup servings a day usually with a small spoonful of wet; he was at 62 pounds when last weighed. Based on his steady weight loss I think we’re at a good place for quantity right now. NOW that all that’s out of the way…recently he’s gotten some liquid diarrhea and though loose stools are typical for him, this amount of liquid diarrhea is odd. I’m wondering if maybe he has intolerance to the first ingredient in Orijen adult which is chicken. I have read a lot about dogs who just don’t handle chicken very well. But I’m puzzled because the loose stool thing has been fairly consistent regardless of the food he eats (I have cycled many foods with my dogs in their lives; my girl has no problems with anything, ever…and my boy is always kind of consistent in not-as-lovely stools). I’m thinking maybe trying a different Orijen recipe (red meat or fish) to see if that stops the liquid diarrhea. If it at least gets things back to “normal” that would help, but then there’s also the issue of solving this chronic loose stool issue. As I mentioned, he is getting some probiotics with his meals. In the past I’ve tried pumpkin as well (he loves it) but I didn’t notice a marked difference; maybe it wasn’t enough? And if so, recommendations on amount to give based on his size?

    I am doing a parasite check on Monday to make sure nothing’s weird there (he picked up some worms over the fall). But like I said, worms or not, regardless of food, his loose stools haven’t been solved long-term. Does this sound familiar? Any luck? Opinions on any possible condition I should bring up to the vet?

    This is kind of a two-part question: 1) does it sound like allergies/intolerance to chicken, or some other ingredient (even though there’s no itching/vomiting…nothing weird going on except diarrhea)? And long-term loose stool advice?

    (you know you MIGHT be a dog person when you talk this much about poop…) 😀

    Sorry about the novel; just trying to be thorough! Thanks for reading!

    #33401
    Jazz Lover
    Member

    Sharon, we to have a 9mo (apr 2013) old lab & I’ve been struggling as to which food to switch to from (Euk LBP). He is now in recovery, post Dysplasia/FCP and this is what got me reading. Although, our initial recommend for Euk is from a reputable guide dog trainer, therefore I assumed I must use it! When I began to actually read the ingredients and noticed corn as one of the top, I felt terribly. As I don’t even eat corn.

    Jazz is 75/80lbs. He was neutered at time of surgery. He is not a lean as he was pre-surgery (FCP & neuter). He has been on rest for the past 4wks since surgery – no excercise. Very difficult, as he’s a puppy!

    You say you switched to Orijen LBP (puppy? correct?) What info do you have as to how long Mystery should stay on puppy, and at what age should one transition to adult (Orijen Adult).

    I would prefer to have 2 variety’s of dry and supp w/ topper such as canned, dehydrated, Stella & Chewy’s & sardine’s a few times ea wk. Since 8mo I’ve been using Grizzly Salmon oil. Because he’s still under 2, I don’t feel comfortable adding all kinds of supps, etc. I’d like to identify a good turmeric… although, I’m confused as when to use toppers & fish oil, turmeric & the amount, given I would be combining w/ his regular food. (For example: If he has 4cups of dry, what amt do you reduce when you include a topper (dehydrated, sardines or canned)?

    I feel like I’ve just about narrowed my food search to a few brands to further look into, however there’s still confusion as to what I should look for in a food for my Lg Breed from age 9mo after. If there are other food recommends then the LBP that I should venture to please lmk?

    #33388

    BernerdAd ~
    Just wanted to ditto Patty’s recommendation on pumpkin. It isn’t something I care to eat, but I keep a single can in my pantry just in case. When I have to open it up, another can goes on the grocery list.

    Lablubber ~
    I can’t remember if I read anywhere the age of your Lab. There’s a number of articles that HDM posted at the very beginning of this topic that address the correct percentage of calcium for large breed puppies. The figures vary somewhat, I chose to take the advice of Dr. Baker and keep Mystery’s calcium nearer to .80 percent. (My Mystery is an English Creme Golden Retriever – healthy adult weight will be about 85 pounds.)

    I hadn’t found this forum when I was researching food so I ended up creating my own chart. I looked at calcium percentage as well as ingredients. I wasn’t going to feed junk (by-products, un-named meat meals, synthetic supplements, controversial ingredients – canola oil for one), no matter what the calcium percentage was. But I also wasn’t going to feed what I thought was the best kibble (no preservatives, no grains), if the calcium was higher than I believed it should be. I would have like to have been feeding Mystery Orijen or Acana but their calcium max for LBP is 1.5%. Though they say they try to keep it to the minimum 1%, they’d be okay feeding my dog nearly twice what he should’ve gotten. In the end, I chose Innova LBP kibble.

    A simple explanation of the problem with too much calcium is, that a LBP less than six months old does not have the ability to process excess calcium properly. Too much calcium gets deposited on the outside of the bones which then causes bone disease. Again, this is the simple explanation – try reading all the articles HDM posted, some of them are a little more technical, but you’ll learn a lot from them. And don’t expect your vet to be familiar with the LBP study or any of the reports from that study. My vet said he wasn’t sure if he’d read any of them when I first mentioned diet concerns – and tried to make me feel like I couldn’t possibly know what I was talking about.

    Back to the age of your Lab. Once a puppy has reached six months of age, he is able to process calcium better but even afterward, calcium still needs to be lower than what a small or medium size puppy can handle. I moved Mystery to Orijen LBP kibble just last month when he was 9 months old. To address your concern regarding transitioning foods, when Mystery’s Innova got down to the last pound, I added a pound of Orjen to it. When that was gone a few days later, it was all Orijen.

    As far as expense goes, I considered Innova to be an average priced kibble – compared to Purina, Iams, Science Diet, or any other junk food. Orijen, on the other hand is going to cost more but is worth it – as far as kibble goes. Innova did have a recall last year at the time that I was feeding it to Mystery. I was forced to switch him over to Wellness – the next lowest calcium percentage, but I cringed at every meal because chicken meal is their third ingredient rather than first, and they use Sodium Selenite instead of Selenium Yeast. It looks like Innova has changed their LBP recipe – I don’t know what I’d do now if my only option to feed was kibble to a LBP.

    BTW, when Innova had their recall, I had no choice but to switch Mystery to Wellness – without any transition. And my cats have never needed transitioning as I’ve upgraded their food. Obviously, common sense must rule if you see a problem cropping up because of the change.

    I have to agree with Patty on Blue. In addition to their minimum calcium percentage being too high, they have three grains in their top five ingredients, they add chicken FLAVOR (why do they need flavoring?), sodium selenite and caramel which is used to make you, the purchaser feel good about the color of their garbage, as if your dog thinks caramel colored food tastes better than beige food. I also don’t like seeing oil of rosemary so high on their ingredient list since we had a Golden that had seizures (if your dog doesn’t have seizures rosemary oil/extract might not be a problem).

    In retrospect, I should have started feeding Mystery raw when we first brought him home at 10 weeks instead of waiting until now when he is 10 months old. You will absolutely learn much here at dogfoodadvisor and especially in the forums. I would also suggest, if you have to continue feeding kibble, go to truthaboutpetfood.com and sign up for her free newsletter. She’s also on Facebook if you prefer. I will say though, that I credit Susan Thixton (truthaboutpetfood), with my decision to pursue a raw diet. Of course, it was here at the forums that I received the most encouragement to switch.

    #33163

    Sue’s Zoo ~

    I am a nanobyte of information away from going raw. I spent two months researching the best kibble to buy for my Golden puppy and now I’ve spent another eight months researching the best way to feed my growing boy and have come to the conclusion that raw is the way to go. Unfortunately, I am also concerned about balancing not only calcium and phosphorus but everything else, protein, veggies, supplements.

    Being at a similar point in the raw decision as you (everyone makes it out to be no big deal but it is intimidating nevertheless), the best I can offer is to share a few things I’ve learned along the way and hope it’s helpful.

    Having had a Golden that required double-hip surgery before she was two, proper bone growth was a huge concern for me. If you’ve been to the LBP nutrition forum (/forums/topic/large-and-giant-breed-puppy-nutrition/#post-33156), you’ve probably already read some of the suggestions that Hound Dog Mom posted at the beginning of the thread. If you haven’t, do – It would’ve saved me a lot of research time if I’d found the forum ten months ago. Although I waded through the technical jargon in many of the articles, I found the article by Baker most useful and objective. Now that Mystery is 10 months old, I’m allowing more calcium in his diet than Baker’s recommended .8%. I’ve changed his kibble to one with a higher calcium content (from Innova to Orijen), and have started giving him an occasional RMB and raw egg (yeah, puppy steps).

    I can’t speak to whether a puppy should eat raw bones until their adult teeth are in except to say that when I asked my breeder about food choices, I was told he starts giving his puppies chicken backs at six months.

    As far as balanced nutrition goes, I’ve considered “balanced” frozen raw brands but they really are expensive and there’s much debate as to whether they’re safe. I’ve read so much conflicting, contradictory and even argumentative information that I have to take a few days off research just to clear my head. Sometimes I wonder if I’ll ever get my Mystery off kibble.

    That said, I did find an Internet conference (what will they think of next), on feeding raw that is hosted by Dogs Naturally Magazine. You can find more information here: http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/raw-roundup/. It isn’t until the end of the month but I’ve already registered and am hopeful to glean that last nanobyte of information so that Mystery will be eating only raw in March.

    #32993

    I would second GizmoMom. Acana and Orijen are the best. They are made by the same company. If you can’t afford Orijen, Acana is the way to go. You could also try the Fromm. Some dogs do really well on it and others have been reporting that their dogs are getting sick on it. I had a dog on the Fromm Gold Reduced Calorie for months with no problems. Keep in mind it is good to rotate foods for your pup so s/he is not eating the same thing all the time.

    #32989
    Walt
    Member

    Hello,

    I’m a new member and wanted to ask your opinions on dog food for our wire hair Terrier Mix (25 lbs – Smooch). He was on Orijen adult and did well for quite awhile and then started having stomach issues; stomach making noises, gassy, lethargic., runny/soft stools. Smooch has been known to eat anything on the ground, rabbit poop, acorns, etc. This might have been an isolated incident, we are not sure. Vet put him on antibiotics and prescription food and he finally got better (took awhile though). Put him NV chicken raw boost dry and he started scratching more often, I then had a saliva test for food sensitivities by Dr. Dodd and it came back with Smooch being sensitive to most foods. According to this test, the only meat proteins that Smooch can tolerate are Beef/Lamb and white fish. The NV contained chicken and turkey, not good according to test. Put him on NV limited ingredient Lamb and he is doing good, but he poops more often and his poop consist of several small/harder pieces (is this good?). He is still scratching. I started giving him fish oil (sardines/anchovies) daily hoping this will help his scratching but not sure if this is good since test revealed sensitivity to Salmon.. In your opinion, are these type tests accurate? Like everyone on this site, we just want to make good decisions for our dog. Any advice on food for Smooch would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

    Walt

    #32979
    GizmoMom
    Member

    Acana and Orijen are good.
    /?s=acana
    /?s=Orijen

    Don’t use Hill’s

    Not sure about Barking Heads, never heard of them.

    Some people are having some issues with Fromm.
    /forums/topic/fromm-dog-food-dangers/

    #32978
    Polemos
    Member

    Thanks everyone for the replies! These are the other brands that I could find only from ordering online that seemed ok:

    Acana Puppy and Junior
    Hill’s Science Diet Puppy Healthy Development
    Barking Heads Puppy Days (British Brand)
    FROMM Puppy Gold Large Breed

    There is also Orijen Puppy but it’s a little outside of our budget at the moment.

    Thanks again everyone!

    #32856

    My rottie just passed last month from lymphoma. When he was eating kibble he did really well on Acana Regionals. There are 4 grain-free varieties. Orijen is another great food made by the same company that makes Acana. Other grain-free foods we tried and liked were: Annamaet grain-free, Horizon Legacy, Go! Fit & Free Adult, and Earthborn Holistic Primitive Natural. Others I like but haven’t tried personally are Dr. Tim’s Kinesis grain-free and Victor grain-free.

    Sometimes dogs eating kibble (and especially older dogs) can benefit from probiotics and digestive enzymes. I buy mine from swansonvitamins.com. They’re made for humans and pretty cheap. I get the regular Swanson brand digestive enzymes and Dr. Langer’s 15 strain probiotic (they’re buy 1 get 1 free right now). I crush the enzyme tablet and open the probioic capsule and mix it up in the food. You can add a little canned food, yogurt, canned pumpkin or something else so it is not just powder mixed with dry food. My almost 8 year old Great Dane is super regular and not very gassy at all. He doesn’t eat kibble but he gets probiotics and enzymes. A lot of people also like the Mercola pet enzymes and probiotics. They are more expensive but they are already in a convenient powder form.

    Hope this is helpful to you.

    #32480
    InkedMarie
    Member

    GRamoin: it’s fine to switch, I would just go very slowly, over a week. I would also use a probiotic. As far as foods, it’s been said that grains aggravate joints so I’d suggest a grainfree food. Some easier on the wallet ones are dr Tim’s, Earthborn, hi Tek…..more expensive are Acana, Orijen, Natures Variety Instinct.

    Good luck!

    #32363
    Mom2Cavs
    Member

    Like you and Patty said, if you can trust a dog food company and the food is rated a good one, then their cat food should be pretty good, too. Most people feel that cats should never eat a dry food. They are also obligate carnivores and need high protein, i.e. meat. Now…I will say I do leave dry out all the time for my cat to nibble on and she does like to do that occasionally. She gets fed a wet/canned food morning and evening. I add in missing link well blend to her food. She has some allergy responses and this seems to help. She loves Instinct kibble (not all flavors/kinds, though) but hates their canned food. She also likes Orijen/Acana. Currently, she’s eating Fromm Gamebird kibble and loves it. It also is doing well with her allergies. She eats Mulligan Stew canned, Fromm Gold canned, Wellness canned and pouches. She likes Weruva ok. I’ve tried premade raw with her a few times but she eventually won’t eat it. I keep trying, though, lol. She’s in perfect weight, as well.

    #30842
    mellowmutt
    Member

    Well, the food’s already mixed… I’ve read this advice a lot, but the only links I’ve come across are to those marketing rotational feeding. Maybe one in ten dogs I’ve ever known had food allergies (mostly to “bad” grains); most of the rest lived long, happy lives on the same food day in and day out, mostly dry kibble of dubious quality by today’s standards. I have two very good, related reasons for mixing rather than rotating.

    First, the different kibble sizes, and one kibble being “preferred” really slows down Amiga’s feeding rate. I don’t want her “inhaling” her food, which she does when all the kibbles are the same size/smell. Mixed, she’ll try picking out the Orijen kibbles! Of course she winds up eating most of the other kibbles along with, at which point I guess she figures she may as well finish the meal. But it does take her twice as long to eat, this way, and gives me control of what she’s eating with no fuss because…

    Second, she’s one of those picky mals who drive their owners to despair with hunger strikes, this being a well-known feature-bug of many individuals of most arctic breeds — which evolved to be headstrong, independent, and require less food than other dogs of similar size. If I rotate the food, which I did try, she’ll just ignore the food dish until what she wants gets put in it — which turns into a battle of wills the human usually loses (I know I’m a sucker for those sad puppy-dog eyes with whimpering), best not let it start if I want her growth rate to be steady not spurty, though.

    http://wildpaw.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=8333
    http://wildpaw.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=4462
    (list goes on)

    I also think Amiga’s spoiled enough without letting her choose her own menu, but it’s a real challenge to get her to eat what I want her to eat, regardless of when she eats it. For instance, when she was protesting NVI Rabbit she got away from me, into a neighbor’s house, and chowed down a whole bowl of Kibbles ‘n’ Bits. Came when called, after a short delay, licking her chops and grinning while the neighbor shooed her out of her house… pinned her ears back and rolled over on her back at my feet in a typical-malamute show of faux-submissiveness (neither hind leg straight), then ignored her own food for two more days. Which turned into four when she figured out how to raid the cat food for a few seconds before I caught her at it, then ate the rest of my sandwich off the countertop while I relocated the cat dish. 🙂

    This can also be an issue when using toppers, but I’ve figured out how to train around this. I’m redirecting Amiga’s prey drive into SAR training (informally, can’t train with other dog/handler teams until she’s more mature about working when other dogs are present, there’s a reason so many SAR dogs are Goldens). Aside from disliking all forms of transport (no rhyme or reason for it I can figure, which I also hope she matures out of), all the aptitude for SAR work is there, her kibble OCD really shines through in “re-find” work. Her name is well-chosen, especially where kids are concerned; if the scent she’s on is animal she pricks her ears forward, but pins ’em back submissively for any and all humans… excellent potential despite being a malamute, even on tracking work.

    She knows the difference between “food” and “umm-umms” and has figured out what I mean when I say “umm-umms on your dinner-food” — a big reward delayed until dinnertime instead of little treats over the course of a long, physically-demanding training session (which she sees as playing hide-and-seek in the forest for a few hours, at this stage). She’s very treat-motivated. Oh, she’ll still skip a meal here and there, but that just lets me know she isn’t getting enough exercise — that and the zoomie circles around the yard. Both of which I’m currently chalking up to being in season, total psycho malamute puppy on my hands atm.

    Some Amiga videos here, the one running next to the bike was taken a month ago while the ones playing with the neighbor Husky are from last week, and aren’t mally pups just adorable before they become terrors?

    http://www.veoh.com/list/u/bikefat

    What worries me is topping kibble with raw/freeze-dried due to the different rates of digestion. If I just feed the toppers as a meal, I’m worried she’ll lose the correlation with it as a treat, and hold out for it as a regular meal by again spurning her kibble — perhaps even the Orijen. With the mix, when she’s hungry she’s really quite excited about being fed, with none of the malamute games we played when I tried rotating five foods and she’d only eat one of ’em.

    YMalMV. 😉

    #30808
    Amaruq
    Member

    We have been feeding our Malamute puppies Orijen puppy food. They are now 2 years old and my husband feels the puppy food is still good for them because it has more protein, but I have read it is bad for adult dogs, too much suppliments, I am afraid we are overdosing them on suppliments, please advise:)))

    #30789
    mellowmutt
    Member

    I got Amiga at 8 weeks old, back on June 1st. Her breeder recommended Nutro LBP Lamb & Rice, so that’s what I fed her at first. I wasn’t happy with her gas or her stools, so I did some research and decided to mix Orijen LBP and NV Prairie LBP with the Nutro. Did some more research and discovered that I was feeding her way too much calcium. So I added two other foods to the mix in mid-July, NV Instinct Rabbit and CC Open Sky, had to set up a spreadsheet to keep CA, CA:K, calories & protein in order. I did the calculations based on the max-CA values, not averages or the tested values of a specific batch, to be on the safe side.

    Ran out of this mix a month ago, at 8 months apparently she can regulate her CA herself, so I quit worrying about it. Now I have her on a mix of Orijen Regional Red, NV Instinct Rabbit, and NV Prairie Venison & Barley. It seems reasonable to me to feed her a red-meat diet in winter, and switch to a fish-and-fowl diet come summer (ancestral-wolf feeding pattern). In a few months the mix will be Orijen Six Fish, NV Instinct Rabbit LID, and NV Prairie Duck & Oatmeal. Both supplemented with the occasional topper of Orijen Tundra freeze-dried. LID Rabbit doesn’t have turkey, which is in the Duck & Oatmeal formula, so Turkey’s on the menu all year, too. Protein content of these blends is 33%.

    The Prairie kibble’s mixed in to lower my cost from $3/lb to $2.75/lb, which adds up with a large breed. Rabbit is in the mix year-round, because I read some research (I’ll post the links if I find them again) about how wild/feral canines/felines primarily eat bunnies. The missing “meat group” in the prepared foods is rodent, so I’ll also occasionally feed raw beaver meat as a topper. I’d like to add a third brand into the mix instead of the Prairie, unfortunately I haven’t found anything that doesn’t have either the “wrong” grains or is loaded with potato (a no-no for malamutes as white potato is known to trigger bloat in this breed), or is too expensive to serve the purpose.

    I set up another spreadsheet for amino acids and did yet more research; I believe she’s getting the full spectrum in sufficient quantities from all the different protein sources (also gets Orijen Tundra freeze-dried treats, used these to teach her to swim ‘cuz they float without getting soggy) such that she doesn’t need the glucosamine/chondroitin/taurine supplements typically found in large-breed-specific formulas — her body ought to be able to produce as much of these as she needs provided the proper building blocks (amino acids & cartilage). Her stools, on the “winter blend” anyway, are firm and dry, and not too voluminous or frequent and she seems to be thriving; my Vet is pleased with her physical condition and says her growth rate is right on target.

    Many thanks to this site and all who contribute for helping me navigate the dog-food waters, it’s enough to make one’s head explode, but it’s also nice to have so many quality options in dry kibble. It’s been several years since I’ve had a dog (Amiga’s my 4th), Iams and even Purina just aren’t what they once were so I didn’t even consider those despite two of my dogs living to 15 (Keeshond on Eukanuba and Golden Retriever on Hi-Pro). My last malamute got Iams Lamb & Rice, but was shot (with cause) by a sheep rancher at 3 1/2 back in ’94 so I have no long-term report, there.

    What got me to not trust dogfood manufacturers and do this research, leading me here, was how horrific the first month was feeding Amiga just the Nutro. Glossy, semi-soft, mucousy stools (if not diarrhea) and lotsa smelly farts — just like my friends’ dogs being fed Nutro. Enzymes, pre- and pro- biotics didn’t help, de-worming only cleared up the worms. No surprise given the ridiculously-high Zinc content in Nutro formulas, apparently since Mars bought them out — these are symptoms of Zinc toxicity, not poor digestive-tract health; no band-aid for that. Wish I’d figured that out sooner, and the calcium-level thing.

    If I had the puppy-food phase to do over again, I wouldn’t touch Nutro with a 10-foot pole. These problems lessened when blended with the other kibbles, and disappeared entirely (OK, occasional fart still, probably the grains) this month after discontinuing the Nutro. I would do the four-kibble mix again, going with just the Rabbit and Duck would be lower calcium, but would also lack the glucosamine/chondroitin/taurine supplements the two LBP kibbles contain, as well as the cartilage and broad spectrum of amino acids which make these supplements unnecessary.

    I did rush her to the vet after-hours back in September for bloat, but I didn’t alter her diet because of it. Sometimes she eats stuff that isn’t “on the menu” so to speak, mostly I blame my kitties because they love hunting and killing — just not eating their kills, which they leave for the alley cats. And for Amiga, sometimes she finds these before I do and accounts for occasional fur/feathers in her stools (Amiga’s also killed a mourning dove, robin, grackle, and a magpie). At least they’ve learned not to bring them in the house! I’m following all the best-practice guidelines for avoiding bloat, so hopefully this was a one-time thing, scary for both of us…

    #30763
    pugmomsandy
    Participant

    For the price of the latest low glycemic foods (kibble and canned like LiveFree and Orijen), you might try feeding raw food like Darwins or Instinct, Bravo, etc. You might even ask the vet about incorporating something like the Yeast Starvation Diet which only has meat, eggs, oil and a vitamin. It might be possible (cost-wise) to feed a min pin a freeze dried raw diet if frozen raw is something you don’t want to feed.

    http://homemadedogfood.com/yeast-starvation-dog-food-recipe/

    #30741
    Josee
    Member

    I had try Orijen and satin ball 🙁
    Orijen make very loose stool…
    Satin ball make no difference except time 🙂

    I don’t know if I can find Victor or Abady here as I had never saw those brands 🙁

    At this moment they are on Acana Puppy & Junior but I found that they make big stole .

    Melissa, why you told to be careful with schnauzer and fat ? I have Standard schnauzer not miniature.

    #30707
    theBCnut
    Member

    You can add fish oil and coconut oil to the foods to increase calories. Abady has a food that is 800 calories per cup and Victor Ultra Pro has 600 calories per cup, but I don’t know if you will be able to find them where you are. Can you get Nature’s Variety Instinct or Orijen, they are higher calorie too, though not as high as Abady or Victor.

    #30456

    My picks would be:
    Orijen Adult (38% protein)
    Acana regionals (31-33% protein)
    Go! Fit and Free Adult (38% protein)
    Annamaet Grain Free (30% protein)
    Earthborn Holistic Primitive Natural (38% protein)
    Horizon Legacy Adult (34% protein)
    Pinnacle Peak Protein (42% protein)
    Timberwolf Platinum (36% protein)

    Our pit bull is currently eating the Earthborn Holistic Primitive Natural with some Timberwolf (Black Forest formula with elk) mixed in. He’s doing really well on it. We bought a small bag of Timberwolf to try in case he didn’t like it. He seems to like it so we’ll buy a big bag next time.

    #30411
    polkadott
    Member

    Thanks Patty! I think I’m going to give Evo, or Orijen a try…I noticed there was a recall on the first, but will make sure the date of manufacture is not within that recall. 🙂 Deb

    #30339
    theBCnut
    Member

    Brother’s Complete, Orijen, Nature’s Variety Instinct,Evo.

    #30303
    A.Sandy
    Member

    I feed Victor, I like it a lot. But Acana, Orijen puppy,and Taste of the wild high prairie puppy are also excellent, a bit higher in carbs but high quality feed.

    Ana
    pet nutrition expert/advisor
    pupcatnutrition.com
    @pupcatfacts

    #30184
    lbouch1
    Member

    Hello, we moved to Australia 2 years ago and ever since, I have been trying to find a premium dog food that my 2 senior rescues will like. Tried Blackhawk, Canidae and taste of the wild. They were on Orijen but we can’t get that here. Any recommendations out there?

    #30093
    cbgmom
    Member

    Hi Molzy,

    Notice any changes with switching to a harness? May still be a little early — I hope it is helpful for Quincy. I don’t even have Casey wear a collar for his tags — they are all on his harness. The food I fed to him never irritated him, just the treats. Quincy seems to have more damage to either the trachea or esophagus (or whatever causes these unfortunate spasms). I fed him grain free kibble (alternated between Orijen, Taste of the Wild, etc) mixed with Kirkland’s premium wet. However, Casey has recently developed a series of other health concerns so I am transitioning him now to commercial raw. I am hoping to learn enough to go the homemade route but for now, that’s what I’ve been feeding. Honest Kitchen certainly seems like a very good food choice for Quincy especially considering you can make it pretty soupy if nec.

    I have not found a single person whose vet was able to diagnose this condition. Casey’s first attack was at 4 months and I ran over to the vet thinking he had something stuck in his throat. She insisted (even though my gut was telling me she was wrong and I told her as much) that frantic grass eating was nausea and he likely had something stuck in his stomach, even though it couldn’t be seen in an xray. $1,100 and an overnight stay for nothing. A few days later, I was walking him and my neighbor said, “I think that collar is bothering him” and I realized that may be the cause.

    I don’t have any other real hints except during vet appts., remind your vet and techs that he has some kind of real sensitivity around his trachea. Casey is feisty and they would restrain him around the head (as well as other areas), which is pretty common. One visit he was gulping for a month afterwards. Now I tell them not to hold him there.

    Anyway, keep me posted with how he is doing!

    #29926

    Yup and i thought i was overwhelmed when i started to look for the correct puppy food. Hahaha i have a couple that i want to try though orijen,eb, pet pantry, dr tim grain free, and some NV formulas. ugh but there is so many others and so many more that i want to learn about. Also some of the fromm formulas.

    #29869

    i just ordered the costal catch from earthborn. i will definitely be reporting back to you guys and girls on how duke reacts and how i feel like he is doing. Duke is getting near the last couple months where he needs to have a controlled amount of calcium. He is 7 months going on 8 soon. There have been a couple foods thats i have been wanting to try but have been too high in calcium like the orijen line, the earthborn primitive, wellness core large breed formula and a couple others. i wish there was a way to send private messages here cuz patty and rescuedanemom i would love to hear more of the foods that you have liked and disliked regardless of calcium

    #29846
    kms
    Participant

    Thank you guys so very much for all the feedback. You have no idea how much this is helping.

    As far as dehyrdation…. I’ve been checking gums/skin/saliva daily since diarrhea started and he seems ok. I find that surprising because he has had 1/2 c – 3/4 c diarrhea every 2 hrs for the last 72 hrs (all night long too). Prior to that, it was more like every 3-4 hrs and he did not wake up in middle of night. He has been drinking tons of water and I was giving pumpkin with each meal up until a couple days ago (no pumpkin since Sat night).

    I started Pro-Pectalin yesterday. He’s had 2 doses so far. Still having diarrhea, but he only wanted to go out twice last night after we went to bed (instead of every 1-2 hrs like before). This morning, 2 stoools so far – mix of diarrhea, moucous and thicker diarrhea (milkshake consistency). It’s really concerning that Pro-Pectalin interferes with TMP. I didn’t think to look into that because I assumed my vet wouldn’t prescribe 2 things that don’t work together. The last time he did that (Pro-Pect + SMZ TMP) we had already gone through 2 rounds Metronidozole, so maybe he was just grasping.

    As far as bland diet…..We started bland (boiled chkn/plain white rice) at the beginning of his 2nd round of Metronidozole (plus Pro-Pectalin). During that week, his stool was soft, runny and had a slimy coating (never firmed up). Then we did another week of bland plus a course of SMZ TMP (plus Pro-Pectalin). During that week, stool firmed up and turned bright yellow. By end of that week, it was formed and a mix of brown and yellow in color. So, for what it’s worth, it seems like the stool did not improve on the bland diet until we started SMZ TMP. (After that, we transitioned to Orijen. Stool got soft/runny during, but firmed up on day #5 of 100% Orijen. Had a week of good stool but then it started to get greasy. That’s when I started Dig Enz’s and Probiotics – which helped breath, gas and volume of stool – but not consistency – stool was still formed followed by soft runny).

    The vet doesn’t want to change his diet until we get test results, but I know the kibble isn’t helping. I stopped the Dig Enz’s 2 days ago because I was afraid they were adding to the problem, but it hasn’t made a difference.

    So at this point, he’s on kibble + double dose Probitoics once per day + Pro-Pectalin. I have stopped all: pumpkin and digestive enzymes.

    Here are my questions:

    Would you hold off on SMZ TMP until test results are back – or start them now? I don’t know enough about oil of oregano to go that route yet, but have started reading. Will the combo of probiotics + Pro-Pectalin + compromised GI system be enough to fight the Clostridium without antibiotics (at least for next 3-4 days)?

    As far as the “double dose” Probiotics…. the jar says Therputic dose for his weight is 2 scoops per day. Is that what you’d do, or would you do that with every meal (which would be double or tiple what the jar calls for – he eats 3 times per day).

    If we stay on kibble, would you add digestive enzymes back in?

    What does “lightly cooked” mean? When I make bland, I boil the chicken until completely cooked and make white rice according to the pkg.

    Thank you so much.

    • This reply was modified 10 years, 11 months ago by kms.
    • This reply was modified 10 years, 11 months ago by kms.
    #29759
    theBCnut
    Member

    One of the important numbers with calcium is grams of calcium per 1000 kcal. This is a better determination of how much calcium the dog is actually getting. It needs to be under 3.5gm of calcium per 1000kcal and all of the Acana line, as well as the Orijen line, is too high.

    #29696
    Moonskimom
    Participant

    Been making this for my dogs for years, slight variations of what is on sale in the veggie dept. Vet fine with it b/c they are super healthy!:
    BIG POT (I freeze 1/2)
    3 lbs ground chicken or turkey or ground pork (or mix)
    2 lbs ground beef (total amount 5 lbs of meat)
    Organic: dried lentils, split peas, brown rice, barley, apples, squash, spinach, kale.
    No salt V-8 juice, tomato paste, organic flaxseed meal, organic virgin coconut oil, cranberries, frozen mixed vegetables, water added as needed but goal is nice thick stew; often add oatmeal if not quite thick enough.When cooling I add a few fish oil pills to pot (same as I take). Served with plain organic yogurt & add powder in caps of pro & prebiotics. Heaviest on the proteins, veggies, & fruits. 2 cups/ 2x’s daily with water added too. CHEAPER than Orijen but use that occasionally- they don’t like it as much. Glucosamine/chondroitin a couple x’s a week, not sure if helpful, mm.
    Both dogs rescue lab/hound etc =pure-bred mutts, both approx 55lb. Both 6yo Therapy dogs & both get TONS of exercise in woods & parks. Raw femur bones a couple of x’s a week & I make my own treats too for when they are working. LOVE MY DOGS!

    #29686
    kms
    Participant

    Melissaandcrew – can you explain why probiotics and digestive enzymes could actually make things worse for some dogs? My 6 mo old Weim pup has had colitis for several months. We are on our 3rd food (Eukanuba Puppy Growth, Orijen LBP, NVI grain-free Rabbit) and I am giving Probiotics, Digestive Enzymes and pumpkin daily. It seems to be getting worse, so i was looking at what food to try next (after we stay on the rabbit for a few more weeks), but now I’m wondering if it’s something in the way his body is processing the Prob’s or Enz’s or both. Thanks.

    #29623
    Wildcat_1
    Participant

    Hi all
    I
    have been reading this topic and the dogfoodadvisor reviews with great interest as I am about to welcome home a new GSD pup. I want to start on a higher quality food than I used in past (Blue Buffalo) and this current pup supposedly is on Eukanuba large breed puppy.

    Hound Dog Mom did some great work and without her spreadsheet this would seem like an even more impossible task 🙂 I also read with interest the threads about calcium levels and was about to pull the trigger on Orijen Large Breed Puppy until I saw the potential issues there with calcium. So, with that said I narrowed it down to Annamaet as the one I want to try, specifically Salcha.

    Once i looked into local availability I found a company producing something with the same nutritionalist as Annamaet and thought I might give that a try.

    This particular company has a couple of products one of which is a grain inclusive puppy specific (28% protein min, 17% fat min, 3.5% fiber, 1.16% calcium dry) specific, the next is an all stages grain free (turkey, chicken, catfish) which is 29% protein, 14% fat 3.5% fiber 1.49% calcium or they have a grain free duck and bison which is 30% protein, 16% fat, 4% fiber.

    The questions I have are:

    1) Grain free or grain inclusive for puppies ?

    2) If grain free as puppy I assume there are still grain free solutions for when they get older (needing leaner food etc) ?

    3) Better to go with puppy or all stage food in general ?

    Thanks so much all

    WC

    #29425

    Interesting. I don’t think he’s sensitive to chicken then since he hasn’t improved on the rabbit food. That sounds like our rottie right now. He’s still recovering from a nasty reaction to his last chemo treatment. The drug did not agree with him at all. I think it killed off everything in his gut. We’ve been feeding him 3x a day with probiotics and enzymes in every meal. We had him on Nutrisource Weight Management for the high fiber (12%) which helps his diarrhea. Now he’s got mostly solid poop with the runny stuff at the end because we switched him to the Earthborn Holistic Primitive Natural (2.5% fiber) with no transition time. He just decided he didn’t want to eat the Nutrisource anymore. I was thinking that fiber might be the issue with your guy but that doesn’t make sense either. You tried 2 higher fiber foods: Orijen at 6% and NVI at 7%. I’m kinda stumped. Hopefully the Perfect Form will start helping. After you run out of NVI you could try NV Prairie LBP to see if he does any better with grains. I also wonder if he might do better on a dehydrated food like Honest Kitchen. It might be easier on his digestive system than kibble. Sorry I can’t be of more help. Those are just some thoughts I had. It sounds like all you can do is trial and error right now until you can definitively rule out parasites again.

    #29404
    kms
    Participant

    Just wanted to update. I’m starting to get more worried. We made the last transition step yesterday and are now at 100% NVI Rabbit. It was a 9 day transition. Still doing digestive enzymes and 1 heaping tblsp pumpkin at each meal – plus a double dose of Probiotics at each meal. Meals are twice per day (1 1/4 c NVI Rabbit per meal) – plus I use 1 c for treats throughout the day – so that’s a total of 3.5 c per day (he’s a 35 lb, 6 mo Weim). Other than the improvement in the quantity/frequency of stool and less fishy smell (which is probably due to the dig enz’s, not the food), it’s the same. The first part comes out nice and formed – and second part comes out like pudding. It has only been 2 days now that he has been on it @ 100%, but shouldn’t I have seen gradual improvement the whole time we were transitioning? or am I not being patient enough? It just seems like most people see a improvement right away. I’m getting worried that it may not be the food. He has now been on 4 foods (Eukanuba Puppy Growth, Chicken & Rice bland diet, Orijen LBP, NVI Rabbit) and all 4 resulted in the same thing. The first 3 were chcken based and the last is rabbit based (although it does use chicken fat as a preservative). His last antibiotic and negative fecal were 40 days ago – so the antibiotics are long gone from his system – and he has been on a double dose of Probiotics for 2 weeks. The really weird thing is…. in all this mess, he HAS had some days with great stools. He had 3 days in a row at one point while on the chicken/rice bland diet – and then he had about 3-4 days in a row when on Orijen – but there was no pattern that I could see.

    Should I start looking for another food or give this food more time?
    Could the 1 c I’m giving as training treats be messing him up because they aren’t being given with dig enz’s and prob’s?
    Is 1 1/4 c (sometimes 1 1/2 c) too much to feed in a meal (ie. should I feed him 3 times/day instead of 2 times/day) I moved to twice per day feedings about 1 month ago at the suggestion of the breeder – she said it would give his GI tract more time to rest.
    Should I stay on a double dose of the probiotics?
    Do you think I need to see the vet?
    I got the Perfect Form – should I try adding that now? I got concerned when I saw that it’s not allowed to be sold in some states. Can you shed some light on that?

    I know that’s a lot of questions and I really appreciate any and all advice.

    #29222
    Eldee
    Participant

    My homemade recipe:
    One large slow cooker
    Only buy marked down items or on sale items remember they are dogs not children
    Stewing beef and skinless boneless chicken breasts
    chicken giblets
    turkey giblets
    beef liver
    low fat low sodium chicken broth ( 1 box )
    Green beans
    carrots
    sweet potato
    frozen blueberries, apple pieces, garlic powder, ground flax seed,
    cubed squash
    throw it all into the slow cooker and cook all day add more water later on if it appears dry
    Remind husband not to touch it, it is for the dog.
    I buy those dollar store plastic containers ( probably full of Chinese lead paint ) I think they are 6 for two dollars.
    I fill them up and keep them in the freezer and add my stew to their kibble.
    Which by the way is Back to Basics and Orijen.

    #29172
    PippaY
    Member

    Hi all,

    My 18lb Welsh Terrier has a mild-moderate case of Protein Losing Enteropathy.

    Our Vet specialist has recommended a Purina HA diet that’s made of “hydrolyzed protein”. Unfortunately I’m wary of anything made by Purina and hydrolyzed protein sounds horribly processed. So I’m looking for suggestions.

    I’ve read that MCT oil (for humans) can help. Not sure how much to give her..

    What about kibble and/or raw food? Brands and types would be appreciated if you’ve had success with any.

    I switched her from Purina Pro Plan sensitive stomach (salmon) variety to Orijen’s Fish formula and “Primal”‘s raw lamb wet food. Her spirits are good. She’s eating well and she doesn’t seem to be losing weight around the middle..though I suspect that she might be losing muscle mass.

    Other things to note:
    She’s allergic to chicken and starts to itch just looking at it. Not sure about turkey or duck.

    Thank you!!

    #29145
    theBCnut
    Member

    High protein stools should be dark, almost black. Don’t be surprised if he starts going less often and when they finally form up they should be much smaller too. It sounds to me like you are getting some good results. I think there might be something in the Orijen that doesn’t agree with him. I would continue just like you are, 75% tomorrow. Woo Hoo!!

    By the time the Perfect Form gets there you may only need a small dose for a while. Keep it aroung for any future transitions, just in case.

    #29141
    kms
    Participant

    RescueDaneMom and Pattyvaughn –

    Thanks! I did some reading last night and ordered some from Amazon.

    As far as the transition, the stools the first 3 days (75%Orijen LBP/25% NVI Rabbit) were basically half formed followed by half runny. Then I moved to 50%/50% and the first day was exactly the same. But the second day (yesterday) was slightly different : his first 2 stools were very formed – almost dry – and he seemed like he was straining to push them out. The third stool was large, formed and greasy/shiny – followed by 1/2 cup runny. The fourth one was was soft (no runny stuff, but no formed stuff either). So far today (day 3 of the 50/50 mix), he had one stool and it was formed followed by 1/4 c soft. I’m not sure if I see a pattern yet or not, but it’s definitely not getting worse. Yesterday, I was starting to get worried that he was constipated (even though I’m still giving him pumpkin – 1 tsp/10 lbs), but then it kinda changed back to where it has been all along. What do you think? If I keep going, tomorrow would be the next step in the transition (75% NVI Rabbit/25% Orijen).

    One other thing I was curious about…his stool are always dark – even when I was back on 100% Orijen. The dark stool seemed to start when I started giving him pumpkin. Does this make sense?

    Thank you again for all your help.

    #29082
    hamish
    Participant

    Hey all

    Been lurking for quite some time with great results in my dog food rotation. Over the past 2 years I’ve fed my Sheltie and Cocker; Orijen 6 fish, Fromm Surf and Turf/ Salmon a la Veg, Brothers Fish, Go! Fit, Annamaet Lean, and Annamaet Aqualuk. As you can see I have an affinity for fish based foods due to my Shelties sensitive skin and I love the coat it produces. The Annamaet, for me, has by far been the best. However, I’m only using Aqualuk and Fromm right now and in an effort to keep a good rotation I want to branch out into new foods. More specifically, I’m interested in dry with some sort of raw mixed in. I was about to buy a bag of Great Life grain free wild salmon until I saw the catastrophe with the recall but it wasn’t a recall ;). I’ve come across Nature’s Variety Instinct Raw Boost Lamb and Salmon. Before I buy a bag I wanted to know if you guys knew of any other options that include freeze dried with dry kibble. I don’t want to get too complicated so please just keep it to all in ones.

    Thanks in advance!

    #29031
    kms
    Participant

    I just wanted to post an Augie update and ask for more help (sorry – someday I hope I can be the one helping). He has been on Probiotics and Digestive Enzymes for 6 days now (and still on canned pumpkin also). The changes I have noticed are: he has less gas, his gas doesn’t smell as bad as before, his breath smells less fishy and his stools are a tiny bit smaller (but still soft). 3 days ago, I began the transition from Orijen LBP to NVI grain-free Rabbit Meal (started at 75% Orijen/25% NVI). I was planning on moving to 50%/50% on day #4 (which would be tomorrow), BUT his stool is still soft (it starts out formed, but then turns to pudding). I read that you shouldn’t move to the next step until the stool is normal. Should I continue at 75/25 for another day or two – or should I move on to 50/50? or is it looking like the rabbit is not going to work for him?

    Also, he has been on the “therapeutic” dose (double dose) of Mercola probiotics for 6 days. Is it time to back it down to a “maintenance” dose (single dose)? Thanks for any help!!!

    • This reply was modified 11 years ago by kms.
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